Friday, 30 August 2013

52 books 37

The Art of Happiness  by HH Dalai Lama and Howard C.Cutler

This book was one my son had read. I realise this is the third book this year with the theme of happiness! As a retired psychiatric nurse it was very interesting from the perspective of mental health in the western world. I also found myself very drawn to the principles of Tibetan Buddhism and wanting to learn more. An enlightening and insightful read.

Thursday, 29 August 2013

Malaysian moments 2013

In little India in Penang you can have a beautiful sari made for you

Sunday, 25 August 2013

Hidden history; Smyth family memories

Luke SMITHETT, a Pilot of Dover, Lower Book (Sketch of Dover by Ledger 1799)
Captain Luke SMITHETT: ..."Captain Luke SMITHETT, a Dover man, who was afterwards knighted, was Commodore, under the Admiralty, of the Dover
Packet Service, and in those days the vessels that he personally commanded nearly always made the quickest passages. Amongst the steamers on
the Passage, in 1846, the swiftest were the "Princess Alice", the "Onyx", and the"Violet". Captain Luke Smithett was very proud of the
"Princess Alice", and did not believe that she could be beaten. When the "Onyx" came on the Passage, in 1846, a race was arranged between that
vessel and the "Princess Alice", which had then been running two years. In a run of an hour and a half along the Kentish coast, the "Onyx"
proved swifter by nine minutes. The average time of the "Onyx" between Dover and Calais from 1846 to 1848 was one hour and twenty-five
minutes. (page 166 "Annals of Dover" by J.Bavington Jones, 2nd edition 1939.



Just found this reference to packet steamers and the Onyx.

Friday, 23 August 2013

Malaysian moments 2013

Thai festival in Times Square,  Penang.

52 books 36

Gifts  by Ursula Le Guin

How would you react if you found you had a gift causing devastation and destruction? This dark tale explores family ties and friendship in a thought provoking and haunting book for older children.

Thursday, 22 August 2013

Hidden history; Smyth family memories

This journal was transcribed with some difficulty by my sister as the writing got smaller and smaller. A fascinating glimpse into a bygone age.

Card & Betting Purse 
Commenced January 21st 1843 with 10/-  
1. 
April 20th 1846.Monday. Started with my kind friend Mr Gutch this evening on his journey to Turkey – left his house at ¼ 7 stopped at Foreign Office for Dispatches and reached the station of the Dover Railway over London Bridge at 20 mins before 8. Train did not start till half past – fell in with a messenger en route for Paris  (Poigngon) who made me a very kind offer of his Jack Boots – very acceptable/ having  
2. 
been disappointed of my own riding boots.) After a journey of ab. 4 ½ hours we arrived at Dover – slept at The Ship a very comfortable Inn and started by one of the New English Packets (The Onyx) at 7 ani oclock. On Tuesday the 21st The Onyx is a very nice little packet and took us across to Calais in 1 ½ hour. It was a lovely morning which I looked upon as a favourable auspice for our journey.  
3. 
We pitched considerably and to my limited experience it seemed very rough tho I understand it is seldom less so – every now and then got a perfect shower bath from the spray which broke over us – about half way we passed one of the French Steamers which had started about an hour and a half before us – a great unwieldy tub of a machine which takes about 4 hours to cross – mem. Never to go by a  

4. 
French Steamer if I can go by an English one) At Calais having shown our passports at the Bureau des Passports and having the contents of our carpet bags turned out on the floor at the Douane/Customs/we proceeded to Dessins’ Hotel where I left Mr Gutch to pack? his carriage and strolled out to see a little of Calais, an essentially French town, narrow streets, red brick houses chiefly with green shutters – stumbled upon 

5. 
Henry Stretton in one of the streets who was staying at Dessins’ with his wife – We had breakfast at 10 for which I was quite ready having been up btn. 5 & 6 and a capital breakfast it was consisting of fried sole, mutton chops, omelette, cheese and a bottle and a half of Bordeaux (vin Ordinaire!!?!) I drank a bottle as good as the generality of claret one gets in England. Left Calais at about 11 ½ with post horses to Mr Gutch’s carriage -  tow’ds Ostend – the Country flat 

6. 
sandy and uninteresting- the chief peculiarities being that the road was pitched the greater part of the way trur? thro’ long avenues of trees as much as three miles in a straight line – passed thro’ several small places Dunkirk & Nieport in Belgium strongly fortified. Reached Ostende abt. 7 ½ this is also strongly fortified. Most of the towns are – Ostende seems a clean and rather pretty town – stopped at the hotel d’Angleterre, the nearest to the railway – had a good 

7. 
Dinner and went to bed to be ready for the Premiere Convoye du chemin de fer (1st train) the following morning at 7. Wednesday 22nd  had a cup of coffee and got to the station which as well as the carriages are very similar to ours - we travell’d in Mr G’s carriage, uncommon snug, smoking allowed in all the carriages I indulged in to a great extent – not quite as fast as ours – 20 miles an hour. The country still very flat till we reached Lieges down to which there is an inclined plaine of abt 

8. 
3 miles – from here to Aix la Chapelle (Achen) the country is most picturesque, the road winding round this most beautiful little wooded vallies with a good deal of rock thrusting thro’ scarcely less than 16 or 18 tunnels. Reached Achen abt. 7 – dined & slept – had a capital bottle of Hockheirnar? – this is a large handsome & very clean town. Stayed at Nicelleus? A very nice hotel. Srichl so theuer? Thursday 23rd  : started at 7 O’Clock & rail to Cologne Railroad not so good as the Belgian – country uninteresting. Cologne fortified city ,beautiful, 
9. 
Cathedral worthy of note begun in 1248, not finished. Crane on the top – arrived here about 9 ½ and got horses as soon as we could (Germans not given to hurrying themselves) to take us to the Rhunishe Dampschiffe (Steamer) which sailed at 10 – after sundry twinings , windings thro’ narrow streets and many stoppages for other vehicles to pass behold us at last on the glorious Rhine. With the Rhine I confess I was disappointed, the greater part of the way the banks were low and muddy and the country flat and not till within two or three hours of Coblentz did it improve, it then became certainly  

10. 
very beautiful undulating Bergs beautifully covered with wood among which the most conspicuous objects are of course Diachinfels? & Ehrenbreitstein? – but I understand the most striking part of the Rhine is from Magenance to Coblentz which I hope to see coming back at a more favourable season and I shall then hope to have a more pleasing impression of the Beauties of the “Magestic Rhine” (Rafts on the Rhine, smoking dirt and feeding on board the Dampfschiffe – specimen of a German dinner – soup, fish, Boulli, pigeon 

11. 
Fried in batter, vegetables, roast fowl, pudding roast meal?, cheese, dessert and wine in tumblers. We reached Coblentz abt. 7 ½ and started immediately with post-horses for Wiesbarden. Arrived at 4 ½ had a washed – breakfasted by myself at Deradly? Mr Gutch went to Mr Hughes, introduced to Mrs Hughes. Pump room and gardens worthy of notice here. Friday 24th Went on by railroad to Frankfurt am Main? Hotel de Rusice? Lunched. Splendid. Bronze statue of Goethe. Streets broad and clean and buildings handsome. Started at 2pm Darmstadt a large melancholy looking town. The Bergstrasse, road from thence to Heidelberg 

12. 
Is a lovely drive along the base of a range of hills, thickly wooded and summounted by old Castles – supped at Heidelberg at the Hollandische Hof – Badischer Hof – the best Inn Mr Gutch made a blunder. From here we posted on to Stuttgardt where we breakfasted (Marcquardt’s Hotel) a fine handsome town and prettily situated. Saturday 25 – posted on thro’ Ulm? To Augsburgh took the rail road to Munich which we reached about 12 ½ on Sunday 26th  had a Dejeuner a la fourchelle at Schwarzer Adler – another blunder the Goldener Hirsch the best inn. The country round Munich flat and uninteresting but 
13. 
Munich itself nothing striking. The houses for the most part mean and dirty and with red tile roofs. Our drive from Munich continued for some hours thro’ flat bleak tract of country the wind blowing very cold from the Ilyrian Alps of which we had a splendid view – a magnificent irregular range their tops covered with snow – after a time the country assumed a less desolate aspect , became more wooded & we passed through numerous villages – the roads thro’ which are lined on both sides with Poplars – indeed thro’out the continent they appear a very favourite tree continuing in avenues for as much as 50 miles at a time – the pine forests too of great 

14. 
Extent attracted my observation – giving to the country a very picturesque appearance. About 12 or 14 miles from Munich we began to ascend Mt Conjecture reached a great altitude – during the night we were awoke of our sleep by a tremendous jolting which threatened the speedy dissolution of our vehicle at least we stopped and our Mr Gutch getting out he found only just in time  - we had crossed a deep ditch at the side of the road and had got over on a rugged bank – two yds. more would have carried us over a fall of 

15. 
10 or 12 feet – as it was  - how we escaped being upset I know not – the roads thro’out are most  dangerous, very and in some places  an embankment of 4 or 5 feet with no defence whatever. Monday 27th    Reached Braunau? The Austrian frontier abt. 8 O’Clock – when having submitted the carriage to a slight inspection / they were very civil here as I believe is generally the case towds. Cabinet Couriers we proceeded to the Traube to wash and breakfast we were nearly putting our feet in it here, for while Mr G went out to put some letters in the post I was honoured by a visit from one of the Police Corps whose business was I learned, when Mr G returned, to take me 

16. 
Before the Commissaire de Police (I having omitted to have my passport visé at Frankfurt by the Austrian Minister – but this after some little chaff was remedied Mr G representing that he had never known it necessary with a Cabinet Courier. We were shown in to his bedroom  (a specimen of continental manners) where he and his wife received us, both in dèshabile  having just risen from their bed which was still occupied by two or three Kinchens in a state of somnolency. From here the road continued hilly and pretty passing thro’ unimportant places and on Tuesday 28th about an 8 or 9 hours’ drive from    
17. 
Vienna we came insight of the waters of the “mighty Danube – this is indeed a magnificent river and in some parts of it the scenery is very beautiful tho’ the general character of its banks are low and muddy – We breakfasted at Molk. Town small and insignificant but having a Benedictine Monastery beautifully situated on a rock rising abruptly from the right bank of the river to the height of 180 feet. From here nothing striking appeared in the road and we came in sight of Vienna about 5 or 6 oclock pm. I was disappointed with the capital of the Austrian Dominions. The houses mean and dirty and the streets narrow. The most striking objects are the Emperors Palace and  
18. 
grounds. Schonbrunn of which you catch a slight glimpse on the right as you enter Vien it appears a magnificent pile of building of great extent - but more consonant with our ideas of an antique Mansion house built of a lightish stone and having a red? Roof  - it is surrounded with splendid forest trees – and on an eminence in the grounds is situated a sort of temple handsomely built to which the public are allowed to make Parties etc and the cathedral a stupendous gothic pile of architecture  - the roof is sort of mosaic work of a diamond pattern, with tiles of various colours. We drove to the Kaiserlein? Von Aestirreich?, but 
19. 
There being no room we located ourselves in the Wild Mann ou d’l’homme sauvage and found it very comfortable – we dined and slept – Mr Gutch received his dispatches and orders that night at 12!! To go by the steamer next morning at 6 – unfortunately Wednesday 29th we missed the steamer! Which gave us a few hours in Vienna which we spent in shopping and intended going by the next boat at 3 but that being a small one wo’d not take the carriage so we were obliged to have post horses to Presburgh – nearly the whole of the way is flat and monotonous – with scarcely an eminence to be seen – reached Presburgh abt. 8 ½  - like the other Austrian towns – more dirty if possible – dined, slept etc at the  
20. 
Gruner Baum – Royal Palace – bunt by fire in 1811 finely situated on an eminence behind the Town – crossed by a bridge of Boats similar to the one across the Rhine at Coblentz. 
Thursday 30th  Started at 8 by the steamer down the Danube and enjoyed a similar day to that spent on the Rhine – the packet being if anything more filthy and the company less select.  The scenery very pretty undulating well wooded hills surmounted by numerous old Hungarian fortresses – chiefly  
Dismantled by the Turks – curious Mills on the Danube formed by two boats and a wheel between them – a house in one where the Miller lived. 
21. 
Frequently as many as 8 or 10 together forming quite a village – arrived at Perth at 7 which appeared an improvement on Presburgh but it was too late to form a very decided opinion of its merits (there is another bridge of boats here – I saw it opened for a steamer to pass thro’ – the boats are severally anchored but one end the boards across are not joined and, on casting loose 6 or 8 of the anchors, that portion of the bridge sways down with the stream and so forms? A strait) this I saw at Preburgh before we started. Now we found the inconvenience of having lost the Steamer from Vien for on inquiry we found the Packet from here to Sconlin? Had sailed this very morning (30th )and that the next wod. Not sail till Sunday – so Mr Gutch not deeming it prudent to delay ordered 

22. 
horses to his carriage with all the pleasing anticipation of 50 or 60 hours posting – we had time however to visit a celebrated pipe shop here where I invested a little “Geld” in those depositories for that universal panacea for the woes of human nature “Bacco” – we then returned to the Inn /Koniginn von England/ & went to snatch a snooze at 10 oclock with strict injunctions to be called at 3 in the morning. 
Friday 1st   May Got off about 4 ½ and now commenced the delights of Hungarian Travelling – the Country is one vast plain bounded only by the horizon & at least one ¼ ? of it was uncultivated sandy common – there are no enclosures and no roads except such as are made by the waggons of the country –  the traveller is entirely dependent on the farmers of the country for horses (Baumpfende?) to take him on his way 

23. 
And who we found thro’out very accommodating – though incontestably slow – keeping us waiting sometimes as much as three hours before we co’d make a start – we had fortunately provided ourselves with cold fowl, bread, and wine which was fortunate as we co’d get nothing this day but what extreme starvation wo’d have induced one to partake of ? black bread, uninviting looking fragments of flesh & sauer kraut -  cabbage leaves left together to rot & ferment and then cooked, boiled as a vegetable or made into soup – this night I awoke from a sound sleep by the calm which succeeded the pitching and tossing we had experienced all day & found ourselves in one of the vast plains  - stuck fast nearly to the axletrees in sand – the moon just sinking – 2 oclock morning and with every prospect of finishing the night there – the country is thickly overspread with large pools of water – at last we moved slowly and gained the next station about 6 oclock 

24. 
Having accomplished about 14 miles since 9 the night before. While waiting for the horses I made love to a farmers daughter for some capital coffee & bread and butter of which we were very glad. Cost 1 swanziger? We continued journeying on in the same slow way that is to say with long delays for the actual speed is great the Hungarians being splendid whips and driving 4 in hand with an ease that wo’d eclipse many of our coachmen – the harness made? Mostly rope – most of their waggons and carts are made without any iron. Very glad were we to find ourselves on Sunday 3rd about 8 oclock at Peterwardein where 5 or 6 hours wo’d complete our journey. This is a large strongly fortified place on the Danube – in leaving it we crossed at least 3 or 4 moats & drawbridges. We breakfasted at Peterwardein or rather Neusatz (the other is the name of the fortress) and were on our road again at 9 oclock. The road is very pretty &near the Danube the 
25. 
Whole way – reached Semlin about 4pm – a large but extremely mean and dirty town, in which you see the Servian Hungarian German and a few Turkish Costumes – found Holmes, one of the messengers & Mr Forblanque, Con. Gen. at Belgrade – took up our quarters at the same Inn (Beiusel’s?) 3 fl.? A day – tolerably comfortable – dined at 6  ( see over) 
Monday 4th Went over to Belgrade with Fourblanque? And Holmes to see the latter off on his ride to  Alexnitza? – a most picturesque Cavalcade – baggage slung across one horse and two or three Scroidus (Tatars? Or guides) costume very like the Greek except that some of them wear the Turkish  trousers and no petticoat. Yawan the Tatar was so habited, dress of crimson cloth embroidered and a Fez cap – Foublanques Paundwr or groom wears quite the Abbacinian dress – with the exception of a Turban with a fringe falling behind. We here met the French Consul Mousr. S! Andre a very agreeable man. Mr Foublanque also a very gentlemanly man returned with us to Scinlin to dinner at 5. 

26. 
The country is overflowed by the Danube in Winter & abt. This time begins to subside when comes fever with all its train of horrors. I should think the distance across to Belgrade could not be less than abt. 2 miles abt. ¾   of an hours row – the boats are heavy and flat bottomed – the amazing noise made by the frogs here astonished me – thousands of them tuning together which we could hear well in our rooms about ½ a mile off – well described in the German by “Quar!” tho’ the notes of some are not unmusical – not unlike a humming to -  the stork too as indeed all through Hungary and in Belgium in great numbers building on the house and chimney tops – swallows very large. 
Tuesday 5th Went for a ride up the course of the Soave at 2 oclock – the country flat set? to dinner at 5 – pipes eyer? ?franck  Belgrade very picturesquely situated – Pacha’s Palace a mean looking building – Turkish Mosques Minnerets & partly Turkish & Servian – went in Turkish part to a  Tobacco & Pipe shop – bought a pipe stick & some “Bacco”  

27. 
Wednesday 6th We went over with Mr Foublanque abt. 1 dined with at 2 – a steady dinner for a Con. Gen. – met Mousr. Le Docteur.  Mousr. S! Andre came and smoked with us after – Chibanques and Coffee as a smaller of course quite in Turkish style – returned at 5 – no communication allowed after 6 – pass warranted Musl? house. 
Thursday 7th Went over to Belgrade at 11  to do some shopping – called on Mousr S! Andre – smoked a chibouque not etiquette to decline this preferred mark of friendship. A festival (St Mark),all the shops closed, dined at 4 and went for a ride after a very pleasant cooling shower of rain – the weather had been scorching all the time we were here. 
Friday 8th Intended to go to Belgrade – no boat –heavy rain. 
Saturday 9th  
Went early to Belgrade – went shopping –lionizing with Mr. Foublanque – Prince’s Palace, barracks, senate house. Dined with Mr. Foublaunque at 2 – Pipes taken at the Custom House – won a bet of Monsr.S! Andre 2 Guld. No rain before we got in. 
Sunday 10th  Wrote no end of letters.Foublaunque dined with us at 2. 
Monday 11th Dined at 3 ½ and went to bed early – to be ready for boat for Marpardia at 4 tomorrow morning. 
Tuesday 12th Got up at 2. A cupof coffee & went to the boat.  

28. 
Excessively amusing to see all the passengers asleep – some on Deck & some below in the saloon. The scenery from Semlin of Orshova abt. 150 miles down the river is the most magnificent I ever saw – running nearly the whole way below? rocky and beautifully wooded mountains rising perpendicularly to the height of 2000 feet. Curious old castle at Semendriou with abt. 24 towers. Made an agreeable acquaintance on board with a Malachian? Princess(Kquiche?) spoke Germ.French. Greek, Malack?, Eng,Ital. Span. Had read Sopl.? Xenoph? Herod- arrived at Orshova at 6 ½  - no room in the inn – an Embassy to greet the Sultan came with us – going on tomorrow to Ranscheltuck – ordered a “Wagen” to Markundia – three horses abreast – a lovely night and the scenery exactly similar to what we had had by water – the road winding thro’ narrow vallies with the most stupendous rocks 
29. 
Interspersed with the most luxurious foliage rising abruptly to a great height above our heads – Mr Gutch compared it to the commencement of the ascent of the Simplou? – arrived about 10 – 12 miles – 5 Guld. 
Wednesday – Makardia most beautifully situated in a narrow valley among the  Carpathian mountains – on a foaming mountain torrent surrounded by such scenery as I have attempted to describe but to convey an idea of which description must be quite inadequate. The only scenery I have seen at all like it is near Lymouth and the neighbourhood of Llanwrstryd? – but quite in miniature compared to this. There is a very strong hot sulphur well here -  baths supplied. And also saline not strong – went up one of the hills after breakfast for a walk- zig zag walks- magnificent view – caves – found one from a chasm in which the stream came out so hot that one could not hold ones hand at the mouth of it – heard the water boiling beneath. Governs…? Lodging houses 

30. 
Beds 1 fl. A night. Breakfasted and dined at a ghasthause? 300 people here last year. 50 families could not be accommodated. 
Thursday 14th Went with  a party (the Doctor, Apothike etc) an expedition up one of the mountains the highest peak in this valley (3000ft) we commenced our ascent at 6pm up a zig zag path through a most delicious wood – we than came to a line of frowning rock 500 or 600 feet perpendicular which we had to surmount by passing along some distance by a narrow ledge abt 3 ft wide called the “chats pfad”? and then climbing thro’ a narrow cleft in the rock. Then ascending though almost perpendicular woods again interspersed with gigantic rocks ( lime stone). The woods are chiefly ash andoak and from the summits and clefts of the rocks Italian Pines shoot out in every direction – the lilac also grows here in profusion. Bears frequent these mountains, the tracks of which we saw – the scene from the summit was magnificent in the extreme & 
31. 
Perfectly baffles all description – standing upon the topmost crag (eagles soaring above my head) which rose quite to a point I looked down on the village of Makardia 3000ft below on the glistening torrent we could only see while on every side  the Carpathian range reared their craggy and forest clothed summits to the skies – the highest of them is 8000 -  the highest we could see was abt 5000 or 6000 its top piercing the clouds and covered low down with snow. This towards the north. To the south  over the wood covered hills the blue mountains in the distance thro’ which the majestic Danube winds its mighty way now losing itself and then again becoming visible thro a chasm in the mountain. We reached the top about 10  and began to descend at 11 passing through a magnificent wood of forest trees – I should think about a 100 or 200 years growth and then through a narrow and precipitous gorge for perhaps 2 miles gigantic pine crowned rocks 500 or 600 feet nearly meeting above our heads. Got down about 1 ½  - 3 hours descending – had a delightful warm bath on my return. 

32. 
Friday 15th Bathed first time this year in the river Cherne at 7 ½  deliciously cold. Went butterfly hunting and dined at the pavilion at 4 Mousr. L’Italian dined with us. 
Saturday 16th Bathed. Went after breakfast a delightful walk along a beautiful path up the bank of the river. Stupendous crags appearing at every break in the dense foliage 500 or 600 feet from the brink of the river whose waters laved its base – saw several snakes some 1 yd ½ long  all venomous here. Black spotted with blue. Fawn and black, black and white. 
Sunday 17th Like anything but Sunday. Shops  open. Billiard playing etc. Rom. Cath. Ch. Disgusting nemmery? (bathed heute? Anon?) met an agreeable man Bohemian. Officer in the Austrian Service. He talked English to me and I German to him. Mutual obligation. 
Monday 18th  Bathed – butterfly hunting etc. beg. To write Germ. The mineral springs vary in temperature. 2 degrees hotter today. Usually about 34  Germ or 112 Fahrenheit. A magnificent  

33. 
Thunder storm this evening abt. 7 lasted till 9 ½  - the vivid lightening shone “from rock to rock the living/writhing? Crags among leaped the live thunder” rain in such torrents as I never saw before. Played billiards with a German – beat me 4 out of 6 . 
Tuesday 19th bathed, walked, dined at 4 and started at 5 ½ in a “Wagen” for Orsova to be in time for the packet in the morning - in a Wagen Wicker work- two seats like a Britska. Covered like an English Market Cart. Arrived at Orsova at 7 ½ went to the Bureau to have our passports vised, ordered beds and went to the packet office – found there was no packet, the Sultan having put them all out of their regular order. One having started for Semlin that very morning. But a Wagen Was to take passengers to Drenkova to meet the 2 man ypfliff?. Turned in 
Wednesday 20th Got up at 5 as they told us last night the Wagen would go at 6. When we got down to the office found it would not go for an hour. Waited 1 ½ hour & got underway eventually at 7 ½  - slap up turn out. Leather harness etc – Nusr? Nearm?. Stopped two hours to bail? At a little village abt. Half way -  got bread eggs and good wine – a beautiful drive – did not regret the change – the road running the whole way along the left bank of the Danube at the base of the rocks – scooped in some places- the rocks hanging right over our heads & on the opposite side rising perpendicularly nearly 1000 ft. reached the packet abt. 4 – dined & slept on board – very mean bed on the horse hair seats with only a quilt  over us in the Dyrifrn? Dullr? – slept well notwithstanding fleas and everything 

34. 
Thursday 21st  waited this morning (after a most acceptable jump into the Donnau From the steps of thePacket) till Mittag? For the Cremyliliplu? From Orsova but none arriving we resumed our journey as far as Drenkova (two or three houses close to the water) found our travelling companion in the Wagen the previous day very agreeable – walked and talked in Latin and German  (he an Italian) slept on board again. 
Friday 22nd  En route again about 6a.m. mountains vanished. Country flat and plain – arrived at Semlin abt 3pm dined and went for a walk with our Italian friend (Guiseppe Abramisk) No end of letters from home etc. One from Foublanque – consul on Sunday. 
Saturday 23rd Went to Belgrade “shopping” – called on the consul. M St Andre who introduced us to a naval officer, a Frenchman in the Turkish Service (Lerman)  who had brought the Pascha down and was just going to return to Constantinople/ stopping at Ranschita? To accompany the Sultan came to Semlin together? – he stopped at our Hotel – had supper and smoked – very agreeable  (Monsr. Lerman I mean). Costume blue frock coat –white trousers, fez cap, sword etc. he was at the battle of Navarino – every language spoken in Constantinople 
Sunday Bathed in the Donnau. – went to Belgrade at 10. Found Foublanque in uniform blue & silver etc waiting for his visitors – disappointed in the court – they came one by  

35. 
One – 1st French Consul – blue coat and trousers embroidered with gold. 2nd Two Suvians? Semitsch Presdt of Counsel & Vachitsch instigator and leader in the last revolution, fez caps, ample cloth cloaks & Turkish slippers – 3rd  Col. Danilevsky Russian Consul. 4th Austrian. Mousr. D’ Lescar 5th Russian Secretary and 6th. abt. 1 O’Clock  the Pascha Vehigil? -  disappointed with the Pascha – the present Sultan has changed the costume from Turkish to European. He wore a fez cap blue surtout? exuberly? embroidered with gold over the chest, back and at the corners. Blue trousers with gold lace & palteul leather boats which looked as if they had come from Regtl. (Regimental?) Sword with a diamond hilt and gold scabbard and a diamond star of his rank on his breast  diamonds on his person worth abot. 5000l  his a ring a single diamond worth 3000l weighs 24 carats. Harem consists of 50 women. We dined with Foublanque. 

36. 
And returned abt. 4 – had supper at 9 with Mousr. Lerman – had received 5 wounds! Knew Lord Byron? In Greece – Sultan always goes in his ship – a steamer with two rows of guns – 25 in the Turkish Service. 100 ships of War – we exchanged cards and he told me if ever I came to Constantinople there was a room for me in his house (opposite Sir Stratford Cannings? And If I went to an Hotel he would never speak to me again. 
Monday 25th  Breakfasted, dined etc with Mousr. Lerman – played a game of billiards with Mr Gutch. Mousr. Lerman started at night promising to return to go with us to Alexanitza  - bathed this morning in the Danube. 
Tuesday 26th  Bathed, had a nice ride and wrote letters. 
Wednesday 27th Ditto? Went to Spalers Gardens and played billiards 
Thursday 28th  Do. (Ditto?) Went over to Belgrade – shopped – dined with the consul and brought over our pipes which had been taken at the Douan and sent to the consul before we went to Markadia – and a tobacco bag. 

37. 
Friday 29th  Bathed etc 
Saturday 30th  Do. Went for a ride – Mr Foublanque came over to dine with us at 3. Mousr. St Andre could not come 
Sunday 31st  Col. Townley arrived at 7 O’Clock . Packed up traps and went over to Belgrade at 12. Dined with Mr. Foublanque at 3 and having arrayed ourselves in white caps german blouses Turkish trousers (with abt. 12 yards of stuff in them) Jack boots (mine red morocco) & spurs – our cavalcade moved off out of the Court at 5. consisting besides ourselves of 2 baggage horses, the Tator in fez cap, red embroidered jacket and vest and Turkish trousers, tatar boots etc and the  Surojee? Or post boy with fez cap yellow jacket Rannel? Turkish trousers & red slippers – after abt. 5 miles the country becomes beautiful, very hilly and splendidly wooded – the road running the whole way thro’ magnificent oak forests  - at night the scene was very striking, the silver moon every now and then piercing the dense foliage and revealing to us our picturesque appearance while every here and there we came suddenly upon encampments of caravans from Stambue? The Buffaloos Waggons and wild forms of the men spread out in a circle round a blazing fire abt. 7 stations between 

38. 
Belgrade and  Alixinatz . changing horses took about an hour when we usually refreshed ourselves with some bread we brought with us – some coffee when we could get it and our pipes, the revivifying and soothing effect on the nerves of a pipe of Turkish tobacco after a hard ride of 5 or 6 hours passes all description. Reached Pack Polanka abt. The 3 or 4 stage at abt 12 ½ or 1 O’Clock 
Monday 1st June in the morning when after having had some bread and sligovitch? And water we were very glad to lay ourselves down on a hard board and slept very soundly for 2 hours at 3 after having had some capital boiled milk and a pipe we were again en route – at a small town about 3 hours ride this side of Jagodina? At 11 we were very glad of some cold lamb, bread and some red wine which we fell in with and then reached Jagardina abt. 1 from whence I was delighted to hear we only had two stages to Alexnizta. Long ones however they proved for we did not reach Alexnitza till abt. 20.12  When as soon as a bed could be got ready ( a straw pallias  on boards across tressels?) I rolled in and never turned until 9 the next morning – as fresh as a lark except a little stiff 
39. 
Tuesday 2nd our landlord and attendant Risto gave a grand spread to which he asked us. Mr Holmes the Mess? At Alexnitza and I went. Mr Gutch was too tired. The scene was picturesque in the extreme in a pretty spot well shaded and close to a sparkling stream which turned a Mill close by.  the party was fast collecting. The host and hostess were superintending the cooking of the dinner on the spot. There was a large hole in which there were the smouldering embers of a fire and over this were roasting two whole sheep and about half a dozen fowls with a stick run thro’ them resting  on two forked sticks and two boys in the picturesque costume of the country performing the office of turnspits. Mine had brought? Me a pipe with which and a little conversation in German I whiled away the time till dinner was ready. When the ladies had arrived we sat down to a table abt 1 ½ ft high, the ladies, Holmes and myself on cushions at the upper end  and the rest on the ground – I sat next to the wife of the Capitain of the place and considering we neither of us understood a word of what the other side we got on pretty well, drank out of the same glass etc  her dress was very pretty a good specimen of a Servian Woman – ( a red fez cap and blue tassel / sometimes gold) the hair dyed black and twisted round on one side ½ round the head a string of Ducats? And a  

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And a treble row round the neck. Like the Greeks a tight under vest and purple velvet jacket beautifully embroidered in gold and silver , a silk petticoat and red morocco shoes. The men were habited variously military costume marone? Red and embroidery and red band round the cap. Blue sfrogs? And silver lace down the trousers, red fez and ample cloak lined and bordered with sable – after dinner we all moved from the table – the women sat round in a circle & talked. The men smoked,  drank, sang and proposed healths – Prince of Servia, Lucen? V The Sultan. Holmes proposed the Commandant, Capitain, Magistrates etc and I the ladies. We then danced a Servian dance in a circle round the musician who played in instrument like a Scotch Bagpipe and then I had a capital Waltz  with the Capitainitza / diun? Temps / and we then escorted the ladies in procession home I having the honour  of having the Capitainitza and the next best looking woman on either arm. The Commandant Capitain and one or two other then came up into our house and “finished the evening like children of mars”    The people appear very sociable and well disposed. Alexnitza is a struggling  

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Dirty small town with one principal street where all the houses look like a collection of Welsh Black smith shops as indeed they do in all the Servian towns. It is notwithstandingly beautifully situated in a fertile valley thro’ which the Morava surpentines surmounted by beautifully wooded hills – as you face Constantinople you see before you part of the range of the Balkan and on the right the blue mountains towards Allania? There is another beautiful little mountain stream  running thro’ the valley where I enjoyed matentinal? Immersions. This night I got into the bedroom I was to occupy till Mr. Holmes went. The entrance to which was effected thro’ a hole abt a yard square like the entrance to an ash hole. It adjoined the kitchen with which it communicated so as to enable me to luxuriate in an atmosphere of wood smoke & fragrant viands . They were both detached from the house -  the house an extraordinary old shop built of logs of wood, watling    and mun and covered with red tiles , there are two bed rooms, a sitting room which is a passage , formed with bricks and on each side an open balcony – one of which is of wood and deliciously cool in the evening  

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Wednesday 3rd went for a short ride over the mountains covered with oak underwood. Beautiful view of the Balkan – got a good chilling? And came back to dinner at 6. Began bathing in  Moravitza      
Thursday 4th  Rode to St Stephano a small convent about 12 miles off prettily situated in a narrow valley – something of Markardia in miniature – a small Greek chapel with painted scene etc  which the two old monks who live there were very civil in showing us – the ride there is exceedingly pretty – now over and then winding round the bases of these densely wooded hills. 
Friday 5th Went for a ride thro’ similar scenery and got intensely wet. 
Saturday 6th Rode part of the way to Boignia? To a beautiful pass between the mountains, rocky and prettily wooded but I must confess it seemed to me tame after Makardia. Bears and Deer frequent these woods. Tracks near the brook. 
Sunday 7th Went to church. Way very civilly made for me to the front of the screen beautifully painted and gilded . Candles 80 burning , something like the Rom, Cath. Priest very  

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Handsome Greek splendidly dressed in green embroidered robe & gilded mantle, no seats, floor strewed with grass. 
Monday 8th Captain lent me his gun. Took it out with Mr. G. who went butterfly hunting – did not get a shot – went out riding at 3 towards the blue mountains on the right. Across the ferry thro beautiful oak underwood a very pretty ride 
Tuesday 9th bathed rode and Mr Gutch and I mutually performed the office of Barber on one another . n. Employ him again 
Wednesday 10th Dispatches arrived from Constantinople, Mr Holmes departed for Belgrade. Went the first stage (Shipiliae?) in Risto’s Vagen a wicker-work van without? Springs. We went out riding a magnificent thunder storm in the evening. Came up from the SW splendid forked lightening and three or 4 crashing claps of thunder just over our heads – the echoes of which continued rolling through the mountains round for several mins. Afterwards “ from peak to peak the rattling crags among leaped the live thunder etc” 

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Thursday 11th  did not bathe. Took a pretty ride thro’ the woods over the hills. Caught a tortoise. 
Friday 12th Bathed . Took a gun and accompanied Mr G towards the Turkish frontier. Shot a bee-eater, dove and two small birds? 
Saturday 13th Wrote to the Governor with letter for Lt. Brougham. Went butterfly hunting & rode the pony after dinner. Did not bathe this morning. Heavy rain. 
Sunday 14th Butterfly hunting. Called on Capitainitza . Bedroom. Reception room. 3 or 4 ladies sitting there and a Pole Zuar.ne officer who spoke German and French. R ode the pony along the banks of Morava  
Monday 15th Rode after dinner with Mr Gutch up the valley over the hill into the Belgrade Road and home. Beautiful sunset. 
Tuesday 16th Dyed moustaches. Went for a ride to the frontier. Felt very ill in the evening . Concluded it proceeded from the dye some of which I had accidentally swallowed – served me right. Vanity well punished. 
Wednesday 17th Still seedy. Went for a ride towards the Albanian Hills. Determined to defer our trip to Bagnia till Friday instead of tomorrow as we intended. 

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Thursday 18th Intensely hot as indeed it has been for the last week. Stayed in during the day, out in the evening. 
Friday 19th  Expedition to Bagnia – started at 10 ½ Rhisto Brindish – our Tatar – blue embroidered Turkish trousers, red boots, white jacket and fez – road pretty and winding thro’ the vallies. Bagnia prettily situated in a plain surrounded by mountains – one abt 8 or 10 miles off 3000 or 4000ft.  one beyond not in sight 6000 – went on a voyage of discovery after dinner to the top of one of the hills . Glorious sunset “ one unclouded blaze of living light”  “Sat on rocks – mused over flood and fell” “ slowly traced the forests shady scene, climbed the trackless mountain leant o’er steeps and foaming falls “  brawling torrent rocky bed and channels very narrow – reminded me of Wolf’s leap above Llanwrtyd? Slept on hay with a horse cloth spread over it in bath house. Magnificent cold spring water for drinking 

46. 
Saturday 20th arose from our Point-de-tout “Doooney”? at 6 ½ to enjoy the luxury of a tepid bath. An old Roman bath circular 4 ft deep? From 12 to 16 in (might be inches?)  diameter at the bottom of a place like a dungeon  with little round holes at the top. Water slightly sulphurous hot 112 deg. Had breakfast walked to the source of the cold spring – intensely cold and brilliantly clear from a cleft in the limestone rock – in the saddle again at 9 to return to  Alixinatz. Wasn’t it baking? Illegible word 
Sunday 21st Great disappointment no letter from home. Bathed, strolled, dined, smoked, as usual 
Monday 22nd Doctor of Zuanantine came up in evening to smoke a pipe (Basileus Tandorocovitch) Thunderstorm 
Tuesday 23rd The Doctor, Mr Gutch and I breakfasted and started at 6 o’clock for Nijsa – lovely morning – our suite consisted of our attendant and dragoman Rhristo splendidly accouteredcrimson robe, pistols in his belt & Turkish scimitre suspended across his shoulders. Osmond the Stambul Tatar. Serojee and baggage horse. When we reached  
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The Turkish frontier 9 miles we had to wait nearly an hour for the change of horses which we occupied very satisfactorily with pipes & draughts of delicious cold spring water. Here our suite was augmented by the addition of one of the Servian soldiers from the frontier. Reached Nijs at about 11. Tatar went on to announce our arrival. Took up our quarters in the Palace of the Greek Archivescobole   (Niskifor) large wooden building brick floors – red tiled roof – ushered? Into reception room – large square room, folding doors , little square windows opposite side – ottomans round three sides – Turkey carpet on the floor – tray of sweetmeat handed round – liquer (                    ) (missing text not inserted) spirits of wine and aniseed and cold water – then Pipes with magnificent amber heads – then thick sweet coffee in small china cups placed in open work silver egg cups – after this we were asked / the question came to me bye the bye 4th hand – to the Dragoman in Greek – to the Doctor in Servian – who again interpreted to Mr G in Italian and he to me in English – when Rhisto was present we could manage pretty well thro’  

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him alone – he knowing a little English. We were asked whether we would take some breakfast – a siesta – more pipes and coffee – or go out and see the town – we chose the latter particularly as we intended returning to Alexinitza  tomorrow. Walked about and did a little shopping . Nijsa is situated in a large plain of many miles in extent watered by the Nijsara and has like Belgrade a very picturesque appearance from the red roofs interspersed with green trees and the glittering minarets – town dirty – houses low ground floor – 3 bridges and moats  - Bazaar curious. Went back to Palace abt. 2 . Pipes and coffee again – sweetmeat? Sweetmeal? Liquer and water – went into another room to dinner – a small tumbler of this liquer and water first, then soup and then abt. 20 to 26 dishes placed on table one by one – of every one of which the guests are expected to taste -  which our Host washed down for us with oceans of very good red wine. Dessert consisted of Apricots, cherries and cucumbers which last he peeled split into 4  

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And after putting salt on it handed to us to break off – retired to the other room – water towels etc to wash our hands as also before dinner – Pipes and coffee – while our host took his siesta we walked out to the tower of skulls a detestable memorial of Turkish barbarity ( in a battle between the Turks and Servians in 1812 in which the former were victorious they built up this memorial turning the part of the head which was wounded outmost ) – climbed to the top and carried off a scull – abt. 1 ½ miles from Nijsa  - returned abt. 7  . Wanted us to have supper . Couldn’t indeed! Introduced to a Turkish Capitain Commandant of Nijsa – told us it was not good to come to Nijsa one day and go away the next – that we ought to go down and pay a visit to the Pasha at Bagnia abt. 6 miles distant – if we would go he would accompany us and have a carriage ready to take us in the morning -  of course we could not refuse – during this discourse unintermitting? Pipes and coffee – magnificent thunder storm, rain in torrents – splendid zig zag lightening . went  

50. 

Abt 8 to have a Turkish bath – accompanied by a servant of the Archbishops with lantern and umbrellas – word had been sent to the baths for everything to be ready and clean as if for the Pasha himself (indeed the attention and hospitality shown us and honour paid us in everything  was most gratifying and could not have exceeded had we been of the first rank in our own country) – enjoyed the Turkish Bath amazingly – returned to the Palace abt. 9 ½ more pipes and coffee in his eminences bedroom – like the other with Ottomans round it but smaller – a sort of raised recess with curtains before it where was his bed. Abt 10 our host conducted us to where we were to sleep beds being made for us on the ottomans in the Grand Reception Room  
Wednesday 24th At 8 O’clock after a sumptuous breakfast we found the Archbishops carriage with four horses at the door in which we went with the Archbishop himself, followed by the Commandant and a picturesque retinue of Turks and Greeks on horseback (Commandant? Pandror  Albanian?) arrived at Bagnia the scene was  

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Picturesque beyond description. Bagnia or the Bath / old Roman like that at Bagnia in Servia ) water tolerably warm – situated on a gentle and prettily wooded eminence backed by hills clothed with trees to the summit in front the vast plain of the Nishava yellow with ripe grain and clothed with trees – to the left the minarets of Nijsa – to the right towards Constantinople two gigantic peaks 6000 or 8000 feet high reared their craggy summits – ruined Mosque and Minaret – baggage, wagons and attendants – tents of Pasha and his friends  - sleeping apartment and kitchen – iced water – sat in Secretaries tent till Pasha came from bath (Mehemet Pasha) Pipes & coffee – Osmond late Pasha of Nisja ,                          Bey of                      , Syrian Dervish etc  present in violet green and blue mantles lined and trimmed with fur . Had a bath. Amphibious children washing horses etc – Sat for 10 mins in Pasha’s tent returned as we came – just escaped a tremendous thunder storm – an awful dinner 26 dishes   - Seiguor Georgio! – our host wanted to keep me there and find me a  

52. 

Wife. Capitain drunk and ill. Mr G and I went out shopping – fruit? Wine & pipes in front of house – pipes and coffee upstairs then to bed, intending to start at the top of the morning but alas! 
Thursday 25th Our intentions frustrated – obliged to undergo another meal of 15 or 16 dishes and wine in proportion after sweetmeat liquer water coffee pipe & liquer & water – then pipes & coffee again & finally got under weigh abt. 9. The Archivescobole ( a sign of great friendship & respect  kissing us on the cheek – we kissing his hand – Turkish Fortress – Pasha’s Palace – Seraglio Empty! Very hot ride. Got back abt 1 (the last breakfast and the ride finished me) very seedy!  Bilious! Indigestion!  
Friday 26th Still seedy etc did not bathe 
Saturday 27th Ditto & Ditto Wrote to my mother & part journey to Nijsa 
Sunday 28th Ditto and Ditto. Did not bathe Letter from Aunt E Do & Do 
Monday 29th Do & Do better etc 
 Tuesday 30th Better – went for a ride after dinner & wrote along letter to Harrison –  

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Wednesday July 1st Walked to the top of one of the hills after dinner – splendid panoramic view .Alexinitza embedded? In the valley – serpentining Morava – gorgeous sunset etc  
Thursday 2nd Rode to meet Col. Townley – caught in thunder storm – Col. Townley did not arrive – removed to the oven 
Friday 3rd Col. Townley arrived just as we had done dinner – I went for a ride over the hill – beany very! (?) 
Saturday 4th  Out shooting with Col. Townley all day. He shot 13 head.  Pigeons, doves, a quail & a dog ( poor old Lord ) 
Sunday 5th went grave seeking – went to the top of a hill overlooking valley towards Bagnia – beautiful! Old Castle on crag – Dobra! Shot at a dog & missed him, spady!! 
Monday 6th  out shooting with Col. Townley & bathed in Morava 
Tuesday 7th Bathed in Morava every day with Townley & went for a ride with Mr Gutch in the evening 
Wednesday 8th began to get impatient for arrival of despatch 
Thursday 9th Called on the Dr. um gu foryru lrbrn fur norjl  ??????? (illegible other language) 

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Friday 10th Went for a ride with Col. Townley & Mr Gutch towards the frontier – beautiful sunset 
Saturday 11th The dispatches arrived at 5 .Bathed by myself in Mararitzu? Off at 8 ¼ in the same form as we came. 1st Station Shupriac? 2nd Idyudiva? At 5 O’clock dined and off again at 6 . 3rd                                               (space in text)  4 Butachina 5. Pasha polanca at 3 in morning – a lovely night – summer lightening – curious costumes Bulgarian etc slept an hour at Pashapolanca   
Sunday 12th – started at 5 – lovely morning with a nice breeze. 6th Station Polak Griafcfuiled? 7th Grotschka – clouds of dust – na dobza – reached Belgrade at 2 crossed over , sharp shower – got very wet – found Mr Grattan, messenger at Sumbu? Dined at 7. Went with Grattan to Kaffee pause . Mr G tired and went on board Steamer. I missed steamer. Grattan exceedingly kind lent me money & made arrangements for me – took wagen to Carlavitz to meet steamer – started at 12 ½ lovely night – delicious weather? & reached  

55. 

Monday 13th Carlovitz at 6 in the morning . ?  Johann  20ft and 2kr? Agent for J P very civil – gave me bread and melon – Steamer arrived a 10 ½ - delighted to see it – Mela? Sluchent? At Carlovitz – a college there with 600 dancers? Banks of river very flat woody & rank vegetation . Neusatz  a fine town close to river & a magnificent fortress Peter Warchine? Opposite – a good dinner on board . Capt agreeable. Apologised for leaving me behind! Sported champagne and told good stories – eine schone fran – guhen mensep?  - sehr gut gerchlafl   
Tuesday 14th arrived at Mohdeh at 12 ½ dined & started with post horses towards Vienna through Rhuhlveisselburgh from whence Poslpferde thro’ Raab all large nice looking towns & arrived at Vienna particularly dirtyied 
Thursday 16 at 5 ½ morning – had a warm bath etc.  

56. 
Breakfasted and sallied forth shopping . Dined went to the opera theatre. 
Friday 17 – went to have a bath – sold die zeit fur die Damen – took a Valet de Place  & went to see the Emperors Coachhouse – magnificent gilded coaches and sledges some 50, 60 and 150 years old . the Palace , the Leichenstein Galleries and the church were all the Emperors and Empresses have been buried since 1622. bronze zinc etc splendidly embossed and carved . Had a glorious bathe abt. 2 in swimming bath at Diana baths Leopold Stadt abt 150 ft by 40 ft. Dined at 4 and went to the Volk Gartens afterwards to hear Strauss’ band – statue of Theseus and the Centaur  by Canova – left Viena at 9 ½ - posted all night – very wet & reached Brauna? At Austrian Frontier at 6 on Sunday morning the 19th then thro Bavaria from her to Munich – beautiful  

57. 

Gentle undulations, magnificently wooded – picturesque towns and villages embedded in woods in the recesses of the hills with the curious gilded and enamelled spires of the churches and in the distance on the left the stupendous chain of the Illyrian? Alps covered with snow – approaching sometimes as near as 10 or 12 miles – extensive pine forests – reached Munich at 8 a m,  went to the Goldene Hirsch – dined – gateway and fresco painting, picture  gallery . Logi etc – a pretty clean city  
Monday 20th Started at 6 . Railway to Augsburgh fortifications – loose sight of the Alps- posted to Ulm reached it at 6 – new fortifications etc – dined at the Goldene Ratd?  The frontier of Wurtenberg  - posted on thr’ the night – very wet and reached Stuttgardt Tuesday 21st  where we breakfasted at the Marcquardtz  

58. 

Very good & Mussirender Neckar Vein Schr. Gut – took a bit of railway at                (left blank) & reached Heidelberg at 5 o’clock – dined and started off with post horses again for Frankfurt. Heidelberg beautifully situated and a lovely town , interspersed with trees, thick hedges etc. – on the Neckar deliciously looking green water – castle a splendid ruin in a fine commanding situation – posted all night and reached Frankfurt at 5 – on Wednesday 22nd Breakfasted and started rail for Bebrie on the Rhine – railroad slow and very shaky . Hochhein? A little village on the sunny bank of the main from whence comes Hock  - beautiful view of Mayennce – spires, fortifications, cathedral etc drawn  

59. 

By a horse on to Bebric  - reached it at 9 & embarked in the Victoria – the day unpropitious – the sail from here to Coblentz baffles all description high banks wooded and covered with vine gardens in some places reaching the height of 600 or 800ft. here and there interspersed with crags nearly every one of which crowned with dismantled fortress & picturesque ruins occurring in such  quick succession as scarcely to be counted . Picturesque villages in recesses at  the base. Small castle on  a rock in the middle – a magnificent view of Ehrenbriects just at the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine an impregnable fortress defended by 400 pieces of cannon and capable of containing a garrison of 14000 men- 500 only in place  

60. 

Lower down abt 20 miles above Cologne we came to the Leibenbergen on almost all of hich there are runs of castles of the Archbishops of Cologne -  all of volcanic origin & consisting of Lava trychyte? & basalt – the highest 1453 – the Drachenfels 1056 but by far the most magnificent an almost perpendicular rock rising from the very margin of the river & crowned with a ruin an almost perfect arch facing the river – a sort of portal & magnificent commencement to the scenery above – named from the cave of a dragon on it said to have been killed by Siegfreid  - a German hero. The Rhine varies in width from 2000 to 1200 feet  

61. 

Widest at Geissenheim the chateau and Vein Garttens of Johanisberg – Prince Wetteinchi? Near – the best wines Johanesberg & Heinbergs  2nd Rudeshein Markobrunner & Rothenberg Hockheim on the main ranks with these of the inferior Erbach & Huffenheim the best – reached Cologne at 5 – a dirty and dull place  - did some shopping and looked into the Cathedral – gorgeous architecture gothic & Italian begun in 1248 beautifully gilded and grained in the interior – walked to extremity of fortifications – smoked a weed in gardens Feaed? – made acquaintance with some German young ladies & finally retired to a downy – the first since leaving Vienna 

62. 
Thursday 23rd Left Cologne by railway at 6 ¼ - the carriages very comfortable particularly the 2nd class – a silent rebuke to us – railroad very rough – reached Halberstadt at 12 o clock where we stopped for ¾ of an hour & got some dinner – a cristoin? House here  Aix la Chappelle Liege and Ghent the principal places we passed through – a fine view of Liege from the top of inclined plane – arrived at Ostende abt 8 ½ had some supper and posted off to Calais  - gave us a good deal of trouble at the French Custom House in the middle of the  

63. 

Night .24th  A lovely morning and drove into Calais in high spirits at 7 o clock in the morning – made ourselves clean, had a good breakfast and moved out of Calais Harbour on board the Princess Alice at 9 ½ - a most delightful crossing in 2 hours – got well thro the custom house – Mr Birmingham the landlord of the Ship Hotel accompanying us had some bread and cheese and beer and started by the 1 ¼ train for  

64. 

London & here I must not omit from notes of travel some mention of the Dover railway which passes most grandly at the base of the stupendous cliffs the sea coming close up on the other side and I understand in rough weather breaking over the railway – there are several tunnels some rather long (abt. 5 mins) the railway is particularly smooth and easy and runs the whole  

65. 

Way through a beautifully diversified country – gentle elevations, well wooded,  luxuriant meadows, picturesque villages and in fact very similar to the south of Devon – passed the atmospheric line from London to Croydon – reached the Bricklayers Arms Station at 5 ¼ and thence after calling at the Foreign Office in Downing Street found ourselves comfortably housed at 6 o clock 

66. 

In 77 Gt. Portland Street at rest from our labours (in pencil added “Amen”) 

67. 
(seem to be added notes) 
Storks on the continent building on the chimney tops  
Frogs at Semlin. Nightingales in the Servian forests 
Tortoises at Alexinatz. Fireflies here and at Mahurdia? 
Sunday 21st June Thermometer 89 in the shade. 140 in sun 
Friday 26th  Ditto    95 do. 
Chateau of the Duke of Nassan at Bibrick on the Rhine facing the river  an old and very handsome palace 

68. 

Language of our Hungarian Schvagers  on the night Friday 1st May urging on their horses  Ge thouu 
Thoi geshvinkt thou  -  
Time at Calais different ¼ of an  hour fast  
Vienna 1 ¼ Semlin 1 ½ Mahardia 1.40 fast 
Walachian “the daughter? Of the Latin tongue “ 
Illyrian “the sister of Russian” 
Disgusting to see two great moustachioed fellows knifing  one another. Germ. 
Walachia as Servia subject to Turkey pays 180,000 fl annually 300,000 inhabitants  
Belesco the reigning Prince of Servia – Melosh the last  
Patrovitch of Wallachia   - Guka the last  
Letter Mr Gutch took for the Pascha  from Mousr. Lerman directed  
Vegil Murad passia a suo excelenzo  
Mussir     de Belgrad